Longtime Nessun Dorma Employee Purchases Bar/Restaurant

Emily Park-Sutrick began serving at Nessun Dorma in 2003, just three months after the bar and restaurant opened. For the next 15 years, Park-Sutrick had other jobs, became a parent and bought a house, but the one constant was working at Nessun Dorma. Now, her relationship with the business has taken on a new dimension, because as of May 12 she became the owner.

Nessun Dorma, 2778 N. Weil St., has been a Riverwest staple, serving Italian-inspired cuisine and paninis paired with a selection of wine, beer, whisk(e)y and other liquors, with a selection that has always punched above its weight. Park-Sutrick doesn’t want to mess with her favorite aspects of the food or drink; her strategy is to improve on what’s already working. “We’ve made a few menu updates, added new options, but we’re also sticking with what already works,” she said.

Park-Sutrick has been reaching out to vendors, finding new wines, beers and liquors to feature. The wine list has more than doubled. She’s also focusing on stocking uncommon liquors and creating a classic cocktail list, each of which has a trademark Nessun Dorma twist. For example, the Italian Old Fashioned is made with brandy as well as amaretto and Galliano. The restaurant also brews coffee and espresso from Valentine Coffee and steeps a selection of Rishi Tea.

From a dining standpoint, the menu has been updated with a spicy steak sandwich and an Italian beef sandwich. Vegetarian or vegan options have been added in the way of an artichoke melt sandwich and a Caprese salad. The restaurant also continues the tradition of a new special every day. For loyal dining customers, longstanding favorites of the menu remain. “We could never take Puccini off the menu at Nessun Dorma – we’d be in trouble,” laughed Park-Sutrick.

She says that one of her favorite memories while working at the restaurant was hearing live acoustic music. “We used to have performers and it was so beautiful and romantic, so we’ll eventually be bringing that back on the weekends,” said Park-Sutrick.

Courtney Kelley is a longtime Nessun Dorma patron and resident of Riverwest. Kelley also understands food and drink culture, as she is head bartender and curator of the cocktail menu at Odd Duck Restaurant.

“Sometimes bars and restaurants eventually need a set of fresh eyes,” said Kelley. “Nessun Dorma has its own special vibe and energy unlike any other place in the neighborhood. I’m excited to have someone who cares about the space take it over. I think Emily will keep the essence and the heart of the place, but breathe a fresh energy into it.”

The process for purchasing the business began in 2017, as Park-Sutrick has had a long relationship with prior owner Dean Cannestra.

“I was surprised by how well the transition went,” said Cannestra. “We took about four months to get everything done at our pace, whether that was with permits or paperwork or any of the other small details, so the transition was very smooth.” Cannestra also owns Italian restaurant Divino, is president of the Italian Community Center, and co-chair for Festa Italiana. “Riverwest has always been great to us at Nessun Dorma and I really appreciate all the support we’ve had over the years,” said Cannestra.

Initially, buying a business wasn’t financially possible for Park-Sutrick. At the urging of family and friends, she created an online fundraising campaign. The campaign took off more quickly than she expected, and the GoFundMe app on her phone lit up with notifications. “I’d be in the grocery store, or with my kids and hear a ding, look at my phone and I’d just start crying wherever I was. It was really intense. Without their help I wouldn’t be able to do this,” she said. A community of neighbors, friends, family, customers, and strangers rallied to support the campaign, and she took over the business in May of 2018.

Dean Cannestra has offered guidance for the first-time business owner, and retains ownership of the building. “Emily is good with people and enjoys the creative aspect of the business, creating specials for food and drinks. She’s a good person and has great people behind her and a lot of support,” he said.

In taking over Nessun Dorma, Park-Sutrick feels a timeless camaraderie. “When learning about the history of the location, I was glad to discover a history of women ownership, and I’m proud to continue that legacy,” she said. She said that throughout her career, she’d always previously worked for men. In becoming a business owner, Park-Sutrick also has the first female boss she’s ever had. “Some days I feel like I have to pinch myself. But it’s gone smoothly because I know everyone and we all work together really well. It feels good to be a boss and be a woman – especially since I’d never had one!” laughed Park-Sutrick.

Nessun Dorma is open daily at 5:00 p.m., serves food until 11:00 p.m. Monday – Thursday, until midnight on Friday and Saturday, 10:00 p.m. on Sunday, and serves drinks until bar close every night. Seating is first come, first served.