A Slice of Heaven Makes its Way to the East Side

Posted on by

Restaurant name: Heaven’s Table BBQ (Crossroads Collective)
Restaurant address: 2238 N Farwell Ave. Milwaukee, WI 53202
Phone number: (414) 732-7109
Hours of operation: M – TH 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. / F – Sat 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. / Sun 11 a.m. – 8 p.m.

Planning a date night can be difficult. Especially when there are multiple activities, time is in a crunch when your belly starts rumbling. Nothing quite puts the pressure on like searching for a meal, reservation-less, before an evening activity like going to a sporting event or concert. What if you can’t find parking? What if there’s a wait for an open table? What if the food takes too long to make? These are risks you need to take into consideration when there is a limited window of time. Luckily, the East Side offers a food hall that eliminates all those worries.

East North Avenue is in the midst of a makeover looking to bring life back to the once dominant college scene. Over the past five years, the crossroads of North & Farwell Ave as well as North & Oakland Ave have seen multiple bars and restaurants close their doors and thus a limited night life. However, Crossroads Collective and its subsequent six vendors are looking to satisfy a variety of palates. Within its doors on the corner of North and Farwell avenues stand multiple local restaurants in a downsized yet collaborative space. Vendors include a soup and sandwich shop, an ice cream stand, tacos, falafels, and a creperie but one diamond stands out amongst the cubic zirconia: Heaven’s Table BBQ.

Look, I’m not going start an argument on whether Midwest smoked meat is better than anywhere else, but this brainchild of Jason Alston is nothing short of miraculous. What started as a failed attempt at smoking meat over seven years ago sparked a fire that has grown into his first physical establishment. Alston recalls selling meals out of his mother’s house just for people to try with the hope of it growing into something bigger. While Alston had no prior professional cooking experience, he had an unyielding desire to learn more and hone his skills. That is reflected in his craftsmanship, whether it’s the exquisite smoke ring in his brisket or the tender, fall-off-the-bone chicken.

I stepped into the confines of the collective in the evening of Friday April 12th, on a mission for not just any food, but barbecue. My girlfriend and I were looking to make dinner plans before Tom Segura’s comedy show at The Riverside Theater. While I was adamant on my choice, she was able to browse other options and found a delicious duck po’boy with tomato soup. I stepped up to Heaven’s counter just as a fresh slab of brisket was about to be cut. Every spice and nip of smoky goodness made my mouth turn into a pool of melted ice cream. I stared at their menu as if under the spell from the BBQ gods before I finally settled on my choice.

Now, the (what should be) first rule of eating barbeque is don’t just try one meat. You don’t only order one type of sushi roll when you go out, do you? The key is indulging in how one style of food has multiple varieties. While Heaven’s Table offers single portion options, the most economical (and delicious) are the options for three, four, or 5 meats. Each include your choice of two equally appetizing sides and a slice of cornbread. One thing to take note of is that most days they do not feature every item on the list, and as the process of smoking is a nearly full-day process, their meats are first come, first serve. I was met with this realization when I had to rethink the three meat choices I would have.

I settled on smoked pork shoulder, chicken wing and half breast, and brisket (my favorite). Along with the mouthwatering meats I got sides of their fried corn, grits, and firecracker cornbread. That’s right, sometimes regular cornbread just isn’t enough! After receiving my self-serve tray, I felt as if I was given meager portions of food. There was one slice of brisket, about a handful of pork shoulder, and the half breast that actually had a decent amount on the bones. But as I made my way through my food conquest, I realized my eyes were much bigger than my stomach. I couldn’t get enough of the pork shoulder. The stringy, tender clumps of charred pork paired perfectly with their in-house barbecue sauce. With the rather large piece of chicken, I couldn’t comprehend how the smokiness and peppery kick of the skin was able to penetrate all the way through to the bone. And the brisket? What more can I say than the burnt edges and the savory fat came full circle to the sliceable meat? I was in meat heaven, sitting at its table.

Aside from the food, what do I think is the best part? The ease of the experience. Like the other vendors inside Crossroads Collective, all the food is made to order, and picked up by you and brought to your own table. I correlate their exclusive model without servers to their lower prices than other establishments. Compared to a similar course at Smoke Shack, three meats cost seven dollars less and you get a second side with your platter. If you dig the ambiance of wood paneling, tin roofs, and cast iron then maybe the higher price is worth it. But I’ll take $18 for a full belly and inclusive atmosphere anytime. One last hidden gem about the collective: Do you have a significant other who is a picky eater? Do your friends all like different foods? You can each find a food you like and can sit together in the open space of the food hall.

RATING: ★★★★☆ (out of 5)
Cuisine type: BARBEQUE
Price per entrée: $6 – $30
Attire: Casual
Reservations: NO, but offers catering
Payment: CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED