Sicilian Delicacies Prepared by My Grandfather

My grandpa still makes incredible Italian cuisine, but my grandma wouldn’t want you to know it.  

The quality of his craft in the kitchen goes back decades, learning from his Aunt Connie, who was a transplant from Sicily and legendary cook. Many of her traditional Italian fare recipes have traveled through generations of the Gagliano family. For things like veal cotaletta, spedini, and lentils, you simply can’t compare to anything else. 

The dining room table is immediately visible when you enter his home.  A place of importance and togetherness, where many conversations have taken place among our traditional family. 

Tucked among a beautifully crafted floral centerpiece is an assortment of candy scattered around the table for snacking. Once seated at the table, the greeting of a familiar aroma arrives: house-made sourdough bread. This paired with an obligatory red wine tasting is the introduction of any meal in Tony Gagliano’s house.

This isn’t exactly a “simple” Italian dinner, this kind of extravagant cooking takes skill and precision.  But the classics on his menu are designed to transport you back through Italy with traditional favorites.  His accomplices include an array of shellfish, cheeses, plenty of garlic, and, of course, lemon grass, poking its way into every dish possible. 

Tonight, he’s chosen to prepare tenderloin “Sicilian style” with penne pasta and broccoli. For those of you who didn’t grow up in a “guido” household like me, a Sicilian steak is a fillet of tenderloin, breaded and sautéed in olive oil creating a wonderfully crunchy delight. While you might think that the pasta side is just like it sounds, you’re slightly off base.  

The pasta, first boiled aldonate is sautéed with olive oil and seasoned with garlic to give it a succulent crunch. The broccoli, well, is just broccoli. But I’m weird and enjoy plain broccoli. 

Perfectly selected ingredients have always been the hallmark of my grandfather’s cooking. The efforts to go to great lengths for good food carry into the excellent taste of his dishes. Even if that food is for sale outside of Wisconsin.  

The traditional Sicilian steak in Milwaukee (if you can find one) will often taste over seasoned with salt and old bread crumbs, since the disappearance of the famous Giovanni’s Restaurant on the East Side, or Tutto in the 3^rdward for the younger readers with good taste. The previous owners, John Safina and sons, sure knew how to cook. Milwaukee lost a piece of its Italian heritage when they closed. 

Dinner finally arrives at the table, served family style, and I’m ready to jump someone for a piece of tenderloin. My grandfather has outdone himself again, making his own breadcrumbs with sprinkled parmesan cheese over the steaks before cooking. Delicious. Is it the Wisconsin in me that loves charred cheese? Probably.  

The pasta is next which is cooked perfectly, some crunch, the taste of olive oil and butter, there’s really nothing better for a Sicilian child like me. 

Followed by an in depth conversation about the political state of our economy, we finish our 2^ndbottle of wine. On to dessert. 

Cannolis. Now, Mr. Gagliano is convinced that this traditional treat is best enjoyed with gelato, tonight an espresso flavor. The coffee notes hitting your tongue feel cleansing, in a sense. Refreshing you after the amazing meal that just occurred. 

I don’t think that I’ve ever been disappointed with my grandfather’s Italian cooking, but this is a personal favorite. If you are lucky enough to spot it on a menu, it’s well worth the adventurous shot.